R1 Remote: Difference between revisions
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== Hilmar-at-Bose Talks about the R1 Remote settings == |
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Again, most people never notice these issues in the first place and if they do, it's rarely a problem of any sort. | Again, most people never notice these issues in the first place and if they do, it's rarely a problem of any sort. | ||
== Muting == | |||
== Hilmar-at-Bose Talks about the R1 Remote settings == | |||
=== LEDs and the Insert Loop === | |||
From Hilmar-at-Bose <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/7346041205?r=4521050871#4521050871 LEDs and the Insert Loop]</ref> | |||
Mr. Jonz is right (as always). The LED on the remote is after the insert loop. Depending on how much energy the signal gains (or looses) in the loop, the LEDs on the power stand and on the remote get out of sync. | |||
Unfortunately, there isn't any easy way to set an effects processor to "unity gain". Observing the two LEDs might help with that. | |||
In general it's not a big deal if any LED goes occasionally red, since there is still some headroom. Only if you see red pretty frequently, it's advisable to turn down. | |||
=== External Mic Preamp Usage === | |||
From Hilmar-at-Bose <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1266055944/m/3516036275?r=4556052085#4556052085 External Mic Preamp Usage]</ref> | |||
Just a little tip: The LED on the power stand and on the remote are calibrated, if nothing is connected to the insert loop. | |||
The LEDs are in sync when the channel volume on the remote is at 12 o'clock. | |||
Occasional red is fine, since you still have reasonable head room from the point where either LED turns red to when something really bad happens. | |||
=== Controlling Overall Volume, Using the Remote or Channels 3 and 4 === | |||
From Hilmar-at-Bose <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/867107664/m/2366037984?r=9906067435#9906067435 Controlling Overall Volume, Using the Remote or Channels 3 and 4]</ref> | |||
Where you control the overall volume is partly personal preference. The best choice would be the Master Volume on the Bose remote control. If that's inconvenient (because you want to control everything from the laptop), you can do it from the labtop as well. In this case you should set the master volume on the remote to 12 o'clock. The trim settings on the power stand should be set so that the clip LEDs on the power stand turn red every now and then if you are at full volume at the labtop (or external mixer). You can also look at the LEDs on the remote. If your channel volume controls on the remote are at 12 o'clock and there is nothing plugged into the insert loop on the power stand, the LEDs on the remote and on the power stand are roughly equivalent. | |||
If you are using Channel 1 or 2 for something else already, you should plug both channels from the labtop (or mixer) into channel 3 & 4. Gain staging is a little more complicated: turn labtop or mixer to full volume, set master volume on the remote to 9 o'clock or so (not too loud) and turn up Channel 3/4 trim control until some audible distortion occurs and then back up by one notch or so. It doesn't have to be very exact, there is plenty of extra gain in the system if needed. | |||
Another tip, if you find you don't need the remote, there is no need to bring it. If you power up the power stand with out the remote, the power stand will assume a remote with all knobs at 12 o'clock. | |||
=== Muting === | |||
Channel 1 and 2 Level Controls on the Remote don't mute the channels. | Channel 1 and 2 Level Controls on the Remote don't mute the channels. | ||
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The channel volume controls have about 40 dB gain from all-the-way-down to all-the-way-up but don't completely mute the sound. | The channel volume controls have about 40 dB gain from all-the-way-down to all-the-way-up but don't completely mute the sound. | ||