R1 Remote: Difference between revisions

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If the knobs get stiff, you can pull them out a bit. Chances are they've just gotten jammed down during packing.
If the knobs get stiff, you can pull them out a bit. Chances are they've just gotten jammed down during packing.


== Is it Required ==  
== Is the R1 Required? ==  
If you power up the System without the Remote Connected, the PowerStand operates as though the Remote is connected with all controls straight-up (12 o'clock) position.
If you power up the System without the Remote Connected, the PowerStand operates as though the Remote is connected with all controls straight-up (12 o'clock) position.


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== What do the LEDs mean? ==
== What do the LEDs mean? ==
There are two LEDs on the R1, one for Channel 1 and one for Channel 2.


The LEDs indicate the amount of level in Channel 1 and 2. (For experts, they are driven by the level at the A/D for the channel.
There are two LEDs on the R1 remote control, one for Channel 1 and one for Channel 2.


They are INDEPENDENT of the setting of the Master Volume control a the bottom of the R1.
The LEDs indicate that a certain level of signal has been reached at a point '''after the preamp''' and '''after the insert loop''' and '''before the conversion of the signal from analog to digital'''.


The LEDs turn from off to green when there's more than a little bit of signal in the channel.
The LEDs are '''independent of the Master Volume Control' at the bottom of the R1.


The turn from green to red when either of two conditions occur:
The LEDs turn from '''off''' to '''green''' when there's more than a little bit of signal in the channel.


1) The signal has exceeded the threshold on the input circuit (or preamp) for Channels 1 and 2. This does NOT indicate clipping or distortion. It indicates that the safe threshold has been reached and so long as the LED is only flickering red, there is still a safe amount of headroom.
The LEDs turn from '''green''' to '''red''' when the signal reaches a threshold that is about 10 dB below the level that would clip the A/D converter and cause objectionable distortion.


2) The threshold on the output of the channel has been exceeded. Again, this does NOT indicate clipping or distortion. It indicates that the safe threshold has been reached. So long as the LED is only flickering red, there is still a safe amount of headroom.
If the LED is '''only flickering red''' the signal is in a '''safe range''' and there will be '''no distortion'''.


Note that when the Channel Volume Control is set at 12:00 o'clock (6 in the 1-12 values printed on the control) the LEDs mirror the LEDs found on the PS1 power stand next to Channel 1 and 2 input. (Exception: you are using the insert loop on either channel.)
If the LED is '''red most of the time''' the signal is '''too high''' and '''this is what you do'''.


What to do if the Channel LED (either 1 or 2) is staying mostly RED:
1) Check the LED on the PS1 power stand for that channel. If it is red most of the time, turn down the Trim Control for that channel on the PS1 until the LED is only flickering red.


Turn down the Channel Volume Control.  
2) Check the LED on the remote. If it is still red most of the time, turn the Channel Volume Control for that channel down on the R1 remote until LED is only flickering red.


a) If the RED persists, you know that the level is too high on the channel input. Turn down the trim control on the PS1 power stand for the appropriate channel (1 or 2). Bring the Channel Volume back to its original position.
After completing this procedure you may be able to get more overall volume by turning up the Master Volume Control on the R1.
 
'''Hint:''' Many players find it helpful to note their gain settings -- trim on the PS1, channel volume and master volume on the R1 -- and make sure these levels are set properly during setup.


b) If the RED stops, you know that the level is too hihg on the channel output. Return the Channel Volume control to a lower level.


== Connections ==
== Connections ==