T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine: Difference between revisions

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__NOEDITSECTION__ {{T1 icon}} {{Model II icon}}  
{{T1 icon}} {{Model II icon}}
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<td valign="top">[[Image:005 Bose T1.gif|Bose T1®]]
'''<big>T1® Fix</big>'''


See: [[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Blue Screen Fix]]
{| width="640"
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| width="320" valign="top" | __TOC__
| valign="top" | [[Image:005 Bose T1.gif|Bose T1®]]  
'''<big>T1® Fix</big>'''


''' <big>Downloads</big>'''
See: [[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Blue Screen Fix]]  
* Fixes and Enhancements
** [[L1® Model II Power Stand Firmware Updates|L1® Model II Power Stand Firmware Updates]] - includes bug fixes
** [[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine Firmware Updates|T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine Firmware Updates]] - includes bug fixes


* Downloadable Presets for your T1®
'''<big>Downloads</big>'''
** [[Presets / ToneMatch® / Downloads|ToneMatch® Presets for the T1®]]


[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8221072574/m/5791097384 T1® and L1® Firmware]
*Fixes and Enhancements
**[[L1® Model II Power Stand Firmware Updates|L1® Model II Power Stand Firmware Updates]] - includes bug fixes
**[[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine Firmware Updates|T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine Firmware Updates]] - includes bug fixes


Announced March 29, 2007
*Downloadable Presets for your T1®
**[[Presets / ToneMatch® / Downloads|ToneMatch® Presets for the T1®]]


* [http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_PRODUCT_PAGE_EVENT&product=t1_audio_engine  T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine - Official Bose Page]
[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8221072574/m/5791097384 T1® and L1® Firmware]  


* [[Presets (T1 ToneMatch)|T1 ToneMatch® Presets]] (includes downloadable lists with cross-references to Version 2 presets).
Announced March 29, 2007
* [http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_STATIC_PAGE_EVENT&url=/musicians/popups/l1_m2_presets.jsp T1 ToneMatch® Presets] (official version - opens in tiny window).


* [[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ]]
*[http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_PRODUCT_PAGE_EVENT&product=t1_audio_engine T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine - Official Bose Page]


*{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Video}}
*[[Presets (T1 ToneMatch)|T1 ToneMatch® Presets]] (includes downloadable lists with cross-references to Version 2 presets).
*[http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_STATIC_PAGE_EVENT&url=/musicians/popups/l1_m2_presets.jsp T1 ToneMatch® Presets] (official version - opens in tiny window).


*[[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Simulation]]  
*[[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ]]
This is an online simulator that lets you interact with all the controls on the {{T1}}
</td></tr></table>


== Documentation ==
*{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Video}}
* {{T1 Manual}}
{{:L1® Model II Documentation}}


*[[T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Simulation]]


== Gain Staging ==
This is an online simulator that lets you interact with all the controls on the {{T1}}  
Your first adjustment for any input to your {{T1}} is the Trim setting. The exact position of the Trim will vary depending on signal strength of your input source. The correct setting for any particular source may be different from your other sources.


[[Image:T1TrimPots.png|T1® Trim Pots]]
|}


Bill-at-Bose <ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&f=7521050644&m=9821050644&r=7191052284#7191052284 Bill-at-Bose Talks about Gain Staging in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref> talks about setting the gain on a {{T1}}.
== Documentation  ==


One difference in gain staging the T1 and the Classic is that the T1 has a three-stage trim LED.  It lights up green when signal is present, yellow when you are getting pretty loud (8 to 10 dB of headroom left), and red when you dangerously close to or at full scale.
*{{T1 Manual}}


In a way, the yellow trim on the T1 is similar to how you treat the red on the Classic.  Some yellow during peaks is good on the T1, just like some red on the Classic is good.
{{:L1® Model II Documentation}}


If the T1 trim is going red, you should back off, you are definitely nearing or in compression.
<br>


[[Image:T1TrimPotGreenYellowRed.png|T1 Trim Pots - Channels 1 and 2 are okay. 3 is set too high]]
== Gain Staging  ==


A really helpful feature on the T1 is to go to the Prefs/Output Level menu, and see where you are relative to maximum output.
Your first adjustment for any input to your {{T1}} is the Trim setting. The exact position of the Trim will vary depending on signal strength of your input source. The correct setting for any particular source may be different from your other sources.  


=== T1® Trim Pots ===
[[Image:T1TrimPots.png|T1® Trim Pots]]
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Trim Pots}}


== Inputs ==
Bill-at-Bose <ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&amp;f=7521050644&amp;m=9821050644&amp;r=7191052284#7191052284 Bill-at-Bose Talks about Gain Staging in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref> talks about setting the gain on a {{T1}}.
The following notes about Channels 1,2,3, 4/5 are from Hilmar-at-Bose spread out over several posts in [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=2981027944#2981027944 Information on the new T1 ToneMatch audio engine]
 
One difference in gain staging the T1 and the Classic is that the T1 has a three-stage trim LED. It lights up green when signal is present, yellow when you are getting pretty loud (8 to 10 dB of headroom left), and red when you dangerously close to or at full scale.
 
In a way, the yellow trim on the T1 is similar to how you treat the red on the Classic. Some yellow during peaks is good on the T1, just like some red on the Classic is good.
 
If the T1 trim is going red, you should back off, you are definitely nearing or in compression.
 
[[Image:T1TrimPotGreenYellowRed.png|T1 Trim Pots - Channels 1 and 2 are okay. 3 is set too high]]
 
A really helpful feature on the T1 is to go to the Prefs/Output Level menu, and see where you are relative to maximum output.
 
=== T1® Trim Pots  ===
 
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Trim Pots}}
 
== Inputs ==
 
The following notes about Channels 1,2,3, 4/5 are from Hilmar-at-Bose spread out over several posts in [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=2981027944#2981027944 Information on the new T1 ToneMatch audio engine]  


Channels 1,2,3 support  
Channels 1,2,3 support  
* Balanced XLR
* Unbalanced Tip-Sleeve


The Tip-Sleeve inputs are high impedance so you can plug in an acoustic guitar with passive piezo pickup or any other passive instrument directly without a pre-amp. Input impedance on Channels 1,2,3 is about 1 MOhm. Channels 4 and 5 have an input impedance of about 10 kOhm.
*Balanced XLR
*Unbalanced Tip-Sleeve
 
The Tip-Sleeve inputs are high impedance so you can plug in an acoustic guitar with passive piezo pickup or any other passive instrument directly without a pre-amp. Input impedance on Channels 1,2,3 is about 1 MOhm. Channels 4 and 5 have an input impedance of about 10 kOhm.  


:Choosing the "best" input impedance is a little bit of a trade off and matching the pickup's impedance is not necessarily the best choice.
:Choosing the "best" input impedance is a little bit of a trade off and matching the pickup's impedance is not necessarily the best choice.
* Piezo pickups are also somewhat of a capacitor and together with the input impedance of the preamp, this forms a low pass filter.
* If the impedance is too low, then the low pass filter is in the audible range and the guitar looses sparkle and gets a little dull.
* If the impedance is too high, the system gets noisy and somewhat sensitive and finicky. For example, stepping on or simply moving a cable changes it's capacitance which creates clearly audible artifacts with a very high input impedance.
* We feel, that 1 MOhm is a very good compromise for a life application.


[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=7571094084#7571094084 Bill-at-Bose gives us the following insights into Channels 1,2,3 and 4/5]
*Piezo pickups are also somewhat of a capacitor and together with the input impedance of the preamp, this forms a low pass filter.
*If the impedance is too low, then the low pass filter is in the audible range and the guitar looses sparkle and gets a little dull.
*If the impedance is too high, the system gets noisy and somewhat sensitive and finicky. For example, stepping on or simply moving a cable changes it's capacitance which creates clearly audible artifacts with a very high input impedance.
*We feel, that 1 MOhm is a very good compromise for a life application.
 
[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=7571094084#7571094084 Bill-at-Bose gives us the following insights into Channels 1,2,3 and 4/5]  
 
*For inputs 1-3, you can physically plug a TS or TRS 1/4" plug into the jack, and get perfect fidelity.
*If you have a balanced line source and TRS cable, and plug into an unbalanced input (1,2,3), you may not get as much resistance to induced noise or potential ground loop hum as you will if you plug into the balanced inputs (4,5).
*Our Master and Aux outputs are actually balanced, so you will have an advantage on noise if you use a TRS, but they accept a TS also. So there we also wrote that they "accept" both TS and TRS.


* For inputs 1-3, you can physically plug a TS or TRS 1/4" plug into the jack, and get perfect fidelity.
<br>
* If you have a balanced line source and TRS cable, and plug into an unbalanced input (1,2,3), you may not get as much resistance to induced noise or potential ground loop hum as you will if you plug into the balanced inputs (4,5).
* Our Master and Aux outputs are actually balanced, so you will have an advantage on noise if you use a TRS, but they accept a TS also. So there we also wrote that they "accept" both TS and TRS.


== Power Stand Input Setting  ==


== Power Stand Input Setting ==
{{T1 icon}}{{Model I icon}}{{Classic icon}} When using the Classic or Model I <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about setting inputs [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3041050644?r=2991039944#2991039944]</ref> The T1 has more input capability then the Model 1,s so you should be able to use the T1 as the only control for your system. We have a recommended trim setting for connecting the T1 to a Model 1 input Ch 3 or Ch 4  
{{T1 icon}}{{Model I icon}}{{Classic icon}}
When using the Classic or Model I <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about setting inputs [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3041050644?r=2991039944#2991039944]</ref>
The T1 has more input capability then the Model 1,s so you should be able to use the T1 as the only control for your system. We have a recommended trim setting for connecting the T1 to a Model 1 input Ch 3 or Ch 4  


Note: New recommendation is '''3''' see below.  
Note: New recommendation is '''3''' see below.  
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With this setting you will not distort or clip the Model 1 no matter what you do on the T1. You can even use the Model 1 without the remote.  
With this setting you will not distort or clip the Model 1 no matter what you do on the T1. You can even use the Model 1 without the remote.  


The {{T1}} controls are a heck of a lot faster then the R1 controls. There is no perceivable lag.
The {{T1}} controls are a heck of a lot faster then the R1 controls. There is no perceivable lag.  


=== Input setting recommendation now '''3''' ===
=== Input setting recommendation now '''3''' ===


MikeZ-at-Bose wrote<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3041050644?r=7271069184#7271069184 the input setting on the Model I or Classic Power Stand with the T1®] </ref>
MikeZ-at-Bose wrote<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3041050644?r=7271069184#7271069184 the input setting on the Model I or Classic Power Stand with the T1®] </ref> Bill-at-Bose and I have revisited this.  
Bill-at-Bose and I have revisited this.


For these conditions:
For these conditions:  
* T1 going into model I/Classic into Ch 3/4
* balanced OR unbalanced 1/4" cable
* remote unplugged, OR, master volume on remote at 12 o clock
* proper gain staging required on the T1 itself


I'm going to revise the original recommendation of '''2''' for Ch 3/4 to '''3''' - under the above conditions.
*T1 going into model I/Classic into Ch 3/4  
*balanced OR unbalanced 1/4" cable
*remote unplugged, OR, master volume on remote at 12 o clock
*proper gain staging required on the T1 itself


This will give you the same gain going into the L1 Classic/model I as if you were going through the digital ethercon input on a model II.
I'm going to revise the original recommendation of '''2''' for Ch 3/4 to '''3''' - under the above conditions.  


If you are using the remote on your M1/CL, then you will need to compensate a bit. If you running the remote master volume at max, then stick with '''2'''on Ch 3/4. I would recommend against running the master volume below 12 o'clock when using a T1.
This will give you the same gain going into the L1 Classic/model I as if you were going through the digital ethercon input on a model II.  


Hopefully this is helpful - please ask away with any questions for clarification.
If you are using the remote on your M1/CL, then you will need to compensate a bit. If you running the remote master volume at max, then stick with '''2'''on Ch 3/4. I would recommend against running the master volume below 12 o'clock when using a T1.  


MikeZ
Hopefully this is helpful - please ask away with any questions for clarification.


<!--
MikeZ <!--
=== Connections to a Model I or Classic ===
=== Connections to a Model I or Classic ===
MikeZ-at-Bose gave us some more insight<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talking about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/100102183?r=5671030415#5671030415 T1&trade; to Model I Connections]</ref>
MikeZ-at-Bose gave us some more insight<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talking about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/100102183?r=5671030415#5671030415 T1&trade; to Model I Connections]</ref>
Line 124: Line 134:
Both ways are equal as long as your distance from the model I is less than 25 or 30 feet. Longer than that I would lean toward option #2.Method #1 allows you not to use a preset Channel on the model I.
Both ways are equal as long as your distance from the model I is less than 25 or 30 feet. Longer than that I would lean toward option #2.Method #1 allows you not to use a preset Channel on the model I.


-->
-->  
 
----
----


Excerpt from the {{T1}} Manual - page 20 - Note: this recommended input setting is now '''3'''. See the note above.
Excerpt from the {{T1}} Manual - page 20 - Note: this recommended input setting is now '''3'''. See the note above.  
 
[[Image:T12ModelI.png]]
 
<br>
 
== Aux Output  ==


[[Image:T12ModelI.png]]
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Aux}}


== Effects  ==


== Aux Output ==
=== Overview from Hilmar-at-Bose  ===
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Aux}}


== Effects ==
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Effects}}  
=== Overview from Hilmar-at-Bose ===
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Effects}}
=== Compressor ===
{{:T1 Tonematch® Audio Engine / Compressor}}


=== Detailed Listing ===
=== Compressor  ===
Please see [[L1® T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ#Effects|Effects]]


<!-- Labeled Section Transclude  
{{:T1 Tonematch® Audio Engine / Compressor}}
 
=== Detailed Listing  ===
 
Please see [[L1® T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ#Effects|Effects]] <!-- Labeled Section Transclude  
{{#lst:L1® T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ|Effects}}
{{#lst:L1® T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / FAQ|Effects}}
-->
-->  
 
<br>
 
== Connect 2 {{T1 no link}}s to a Model II  ==
 
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Connections to Model II}}
 
== Preamps  ==
 
=== Comparison to Model I and Classic  ===


MikeZ-at-Bose tells us:<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3651093054?r=1711028154#1711028154 talks about the preamps in the L1 Model I and the T1® ]</ref>


... (the preamps on the Model I are)... exactly the same as the Classic.


== Connect 2 {{T1 no link}}s to a Model II ==
On the {{T1}} they're different, but are designed to the same standard as the {{Classic}} preamps.
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Connections to Model II}}


== Preamps ==
Functionally they are basically the same in terms of frequency response, input impedance, noise performance, max gains etc.
=== Comparison to Model I and Classic ===


MikeZ-at-Bose tells us:<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3651093054?r=1711028154#1711028154 talks about the preamps in the L1 Model I and the T1® ]</ref>
The difference comes in how we get there. I'll try not to go into horribly boring detail. The name of the game is trade offs, and in the end the design constraints dictate the *best* type of circuit used for *this* particular situation. Here are a couple of the many factors that dictate the differences:


... (the preamps on the Model I are)...  exactly the same as the Classic.
Gain structure. The internal components of the {{T1}} are different that the {{Model I}} / {{Classic}} and need to have signals fed to them in certain ways. Different designs are more suited to the levels needed than others.  


On the {{T1}} they're different, but are designed to the same standard as the {{Classic}} preamps.
Physical layout of the circuit on the board. There are four channels in a tighter space in the {{T1}}. Again, certain designs lend themselves to be better at this than others.  


Functionally they are basically the same in terms of frequency response, input impedance, noise performance, max gains etc.
After evaluating all of the factors that go into the design of a preamp we are using another proven circuit that relies more on discrete transistors rather than op-amps. It fits our needs better for this design situation. The preamp design itself is not necessarily any better or worse. There are *many* ways to skin the cat of preamp design to achieve a desired performance.  


The difference comes in how we get there. I'll try not to go into horribly boring detail. The name of the game is trade offs, and in the end the design constraints dictate the *best* type of circuit used for *this* particular situation. Here are a couple of the many factors that dictate the differences:
Will it sound different? No...I certainly cannot hear a difference playing through it. Can't measure one either.  


Gain structure. The internal components of the {{T1}} are different that the {{Model I}} / {{Classic}} and need to have signals fed to them in certain ways. Different designs are more suited to the levels needed than others.
Hope this sheds some light on it.  


Physical layout of the circuit on the board. There are four channels in a tighter space in the {{T1}}. Again, certain designs lend themselves to be better at this than others.
MikeZ<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3651093054?r=1711028154#1711028154 talks about the preamps in the L1 Model I and the T1® ]</ref>


After evaluating all of the factors that go into the design of a preamp we are using another proven circuit that relies more on discrete transistors rather than op-amps. It fits our needs better for this design situation. The preamp design itself is not necessarily any better or worse. There are *many* ways to skin the cat of preamp design to achieve a desired performance.
=== Preamps Out  ===


Will it sound different? No...I certainly cannot hear a difference playing through it. Can't measure one either.
[[Image:T1PreampsOut.png|thumb|right|image of T1® rear pointing to Preamps out]] The preamp outputs are before everything except the Trim control in the signal chain. - MikeZ-at-Bose<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose -[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5891048364?r=3141068364#3141068364  T1® Preamp Out Muting]</ref>. This means that these are post-trim, and nothing else (e.g. Muting) has any effect on the signal at the preamp outs.  


Hope this sheds some light on it.
<br>


MikeZ<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/3651093054?r=1711028154#1711028154 talks about the preamps in the L1 Model I and the T1® ]</ref>
=== Presets  ===


=== Preamps Out ===
*[[Presets / ToneMatch® / Downloads|ToneMatch® Presets for the T1®]] (downloadable presets that are not installed at the factory)
[[Image:T1PreampsOut.png|thumb|right|image of T1® rear pointing to Preamps out]]
*[[Presets (T1 ToneMatch)|T1 ToneMatch® Presets]] (includes downloadable lists with cross-references to Version 2 presets).
The preamp outputs are before everything except the Trim control in the signal chain. - MikeZ-at-Bose<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose -[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5891048364?r=3141068364#3141068364  T1® Preamp Out Muting]</ref>. This means that these are post-trim, and nothing else (e.g. Muting) has any effect on the signal at the preamp outs.


<br>


=== Presets ===
== Tuner  ==
* [[Presets / ToneMatch® / Downloads|ToneMatch® Presets for the T1®]] (downloadable presets that are not  installed at the factory)
* [[Presets (T1 ToneMatch)|T1 ToneMatch® Presets]] (includes downloadable lists with cross-references to Version 2 presets).


{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Tuner}}


== Tuner ==
== USB (Computer Interface)  ==
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Tuner}}


== USB (Computer Interface) ==
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / USB}}  
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / USB}}


<br>


== Cables  ==
== Cables  ==
=== From T1 to Model II ===
Ken-at-Bose<ref>Ken-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&f=7521050644&m=3651060054&r=2631045054#2631045054 Steal this computer cable!!]</ref>


The {{T1}} comes with a really nice Pro Ethercon cable, with robust metal connector shells and an almost memoryless 18' black cable.
=== From T1 to Model II  ===
 
Ken-at-Bose<ref>Ken-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&amp;f=7521050644&amp;m=3651060054&amp;r=2631045054#2631045054 Steal this computer cable!!]</ref>
 
The {{T1}} comes with a really nice Pro Ethercon cable, with robust metal connector shells and an almost memoryless 18' black cable.  
 
However, in a pinch, should you forget the cable, or if say a huge Hammond B3 gets dropped on the cable and severs it, YOU CAN USE ANY ORDINARY CAT 5 ETHERNET CABLE and it will work fine until you replace you nice fancy T1 cable.
 
Later in that discussion Hilmar-at-Bose tells us:


However, in a pinch, should you forget the cable, or if say a huge Hammond B3 gets dropped on the cable and severs it, YOU CAN USE ANY ORDINARY CAT 5 ETHERNET CABLE and it will work fine until you replace you nice fancy T1 cable.
Any CAT5 (or CAT5e, CAT6, or CAT7) cable will work just fine without any degradation at least initially. The downsides are that most ethernet cables don't coil particularly well and that the connectors wear out over time. After a a few hundred uses you may notice the occasional drop out, at which point it's time to get a new one.  


Later in that discussion Hilmar-at-Bose tells us:
It's certainly a quick and cheap way to get a spare for an emergency.


Any CAT5 (or CAT5e, CAT6, or CAT7) cable will work just fine without any degradation at least initially. The downsides are that most ethernet cables don't coil particularly well and that the connectors wear out over time. After a a few hundred uses you may notice the occasional drop out, at which point it's time to get a new one.
=== Convert Cat-5 Cat-6 to Ethercon  ===


It's certainly a quick and cheap way to get a spare for an emergency.
[http://www.neutrik.com/content/products/detail.aspx?id=210_1267482192&catId=CatMSDE_misc NE8MC EtherCon® Cable Connector Carriers] (retrofit over an existing RJ-45 Connector).  


=== Convert Cat-5 Cat-6 to Ethercon ===
Example vendor http://www.fullcompass.com/product/255589.html
[http://www.neutrik.com/content/products/detail.aspx?id=210_1267482192&catId=CatMSDE_misc NE8MC EtherCon® Cable Connector Carriers] (retrofit over an existing RJ-45 Connector).


Example vendor http://www.fullcompass.com/product/255589.html
<br>


=== Cable Length  ===


=== Cable Length ===
==== Up to 50 feet ====
==== Up to 50 feet ====


A technical note from Bill-at-Bose <ref>Bill-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5711086844?r=3931015654#3931015654 cable lengths]</ref>
A technical note from Bill-at-Bose <ref>Bill-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5711086844?r=3931015654#3931015654 cable lengths]</ref>  


A 33 or 50 footer will not cause any problems, either with the digital audio (ones and zips) or the power.
A 33 or 50 footer will not cause any problems, either with the digital audio (ones and zips) or the power.  


The technical reason follows, for those who are interested : A 24 gauge wire (the size typically used in ethernet cables) has about 2.5 Ohms of resistance per 100 feet. The T1 draws roughly 1/4 Amp on each of two supply wire pairs (+/-18V nominal).
The technical reason follows, for those who are interested&nbsp;: A 24 gauge wire (the size typically used in ethernet cables) has about 2.5 Ohms of resistance per 100 feet. The T1 draws roughly 1/4 Amp on each of two supply wire pairs (+/-18V nominal).  


For a 50 foot run, each pair of wires (made up of a plus and minus lead) totals 100 feet. A quarter Amp of current across 2.5 Ohms gives, per Ohm's law, a voltage drop of less than one volt (V=IR = 0.625 Volts). Because of the margin we built into the system, it can handle this voltage drop easily.
For a 50 foot run, each pair of wires (made up of a plus and minus lead) totals 100 feet. A quarter Amp of current across 2.5 Ohms gives, per Ohm's law, a voltage drop of less than one volt (V=IR = 0.625 Volts). Because of the margin we built into the system, it can handle this voltage drop easily.  


In fact, although we don't recommend it and can't guarantee it, the digital audio has been tested up to 100 feet in average conditions (for example, no undervoltage on the AC supply at the gig), and quite happily continued to make music.
In fact, although we don't recommend it and can't guarantee it, the digital audio has been tested up to 100 feet in average conditions (for example, no undervoltage on the AC supply at the gig), and quite happily continued to make music.  


==== Over 50 feet ====
==== Over 50 feet ====


MikeZ-at-Bose added in a later discussion:<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/8501089064?r=4311000164#4311000164 talks about T1 cable lengths]</ref>  
MikeZ-at-Bose added in a later discussion:<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/8501089064?r=4311000164#4311000164 talks about T1 cable lengths]</ref>  


Bill at Bose stated you could run 50' of ethernet cable no problem at all. Success at distances longer than that would start to depend on outside factors, for instance the voltage of your power source.
Bill at Bose stated you could run 50' of ethernet cable no problem at all. Success at distances longer than that would start to depend on outside factors, for instance the voltage of your power source.
 
Another option for you is to run the {{T1}} off of the optional power supply, and then run a balanced line from the Master Out on the {{T1}} to the balanced 'analog input' on the {{Model II}}. This method would be able to transmit over a hundred feet, perhaps much more.
 
== Power Supply  ==
 
{{T1ps}}
 
5 foot of cord from the T1 to the switching power supply, and a removable 6 foot cord from the power supply to the wall. This is very similar to a laptop power supply.  


Another option for you is to run the {{T1}} off of the optional power supply, and then run a balanced line from the Master Out on the {{T1}} to the balanced 'analog input' on the {{Model II}}. This method would be able to transmit over a hundred feet, perhaps much more.
== Microphone Stand Bracket (optional)  ==


== Optional AC Power Adaptor ==
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Microphone Stand Bracket}}
5 foot of cord from the T1 to the switching power supply, and a removable 6 foot cord from the power supply to the wall. This  is very similar to a laptop power supply.


== Microphone Stand Bracket (optional) ==
== Display Panel  ==
{{:T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine / Microphone Stand Bracket}}


== Display Panel ==
=== Outdoors ===
=== Outdoors ===


Q:   Please talk about using the {{T1}} outdoors. Will I be able to see /read the display?
Q: Please talk about using the {{T1}} outdoors. Will I be able to see /read the display? A: Should be no problem. The LCD display on the T1 is "transflexive". In dark conditions the blue backlight will shine through the "transmissible" part so everything is easily visible. In bright sunlight, it becomes "reflexive" just like a piece of paper. The backlight may wash out (i.e. it will not look really blue anymore) but it's still clearly visible. <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about the [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=4091059454#4091059454 transflexive display on the T1®]</ref>  
A:   Should be no problem. The LCD display on the T1 is "transflexive". In dark conditions the blue backlight will shine through the "transmissible" part so everything is easily visible.  
In bright sunlight, it becomes "reflexive" just like a piece of paper. The backlight may wash out (i.e. it will not look really blue anymore) but it's still clearly visible. <ref>Hilmar-at-Bose talks about the [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/5031050644?r=4091059454#4091059454 transflexive display on the T1®]</ref>


=== Design of Visual Components  ===
=== Design of Visual Components  ===
Quoting Ken-at-Bose<ref>Ken-at-Bose speaks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&f=7521050644&m=9821050644&r=5841029944#5841029944 development of the T1 ToneMatch&trade; audio engine]</ref>


In 23 years at Bose, the {{Model II}} and {{T1}} are the most lovingly designed products I have ever had the fortune to work on. More care by more experienced people went into this than anything I've been involved in.
Quoting Ken-at-Bose<ref>Ken-at-Bose speaks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&amp;f=7521050644&amp;m=9821050644&amp;r=5841029944#5841029944 development of the T1 ToneMatch&amp;trade; audio engine]</ref>
 
In 23 years at Bose, the {{Model II}} and {{T1}} are the most lovingly designed products I have ever had the fortune to work on. More care by more experienced people went into this than anything I've been involved in.  


The most minute details were studiously created. As one tiny but important example, a propriety light pipe was designed so that the light from volume knob indicators smoothly wrapped around the knob from top to side, giving the musician a clear indication of volume from any angle. The color and intensity of the light was carefully designed so that it was visible in an extraordinarily wide range of stage lighting conditions.
The most minute details were studiously created. As one tiny but important example, a propriety light pipe was designed so that the light from volume knob indicators smoothly wrapped around the knob from top to side, giving the musician a clear indication of volume from any angle. The color and intensity of the light was carefully designed so that it was visible in an extraordinarily wide range of stage lighting conditions.  


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<references />
<references />  
 
[[Category:T1]]
[[Category:T1]]