Template:L1 Model II with T1 Sound Drop Outs: Difference between revisions
Created page with " A quick review of four POSSIBLE causes of audio cutting out follows. That will help us determine what is going on. 1. If there is a non-Bose B1/B2 cable, OR if the B1/B2 ca..." |
|||
| (5 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 3: | Line 3: | ||
A quick review of four POSSIBLE causes of audio cutting out follows. That will help us determine what is going on. | A quick review of four POSSIBLE causes of audio cutting out follows. That will help us determine what is going on. | ||
==== Bass Module Cable ==== | |||
If there is a non-Bose B1/B2 cable, OR if the B1/B2 cable has a defective, loose connection, audio can intermittently mute. It may happen with loud music because the speaker will be vibrating and shake the loose connection. This will sound like a clean muting of all audio for a second or so. There will be no visual indication. | |||
Fixable by tightening the screws in the connector. | Fixable by tightening the screws in the connector. | ||
For more details see: [[Sound Fading In and Out]] | |||
<!-- | <!-- | ||
This would only happen on one {{Model II}} at a time. If two dropped out, this is not the issue. | This would only happen on one {{Model II}} at a time. If two dropped out, this is not the issue. | ||
--> | --> | ||
==== Power Issues ==== | |||
Very low, out-of spec, AC power (less than ~105 VAC on a 120V system, or less than around ~215 V on a 230 V system. The manual states 110 and 220 for good measure) coupled with high signal level. This can be caused by a low power source, or one where the outlets are a very long distance from the electrical panel, extra equipment on the same electrical branch, power sags or dropouts, long or multiple extension cords, or small gauge extension cords. | |||
In this case, loud music increases the current draw, and the voltage drop over the extension cord will lower the voltage enough to cause a reset of the {{ToneMatch Mixer}}, or the {{Model II}} Power Stand. | |||
In this case, loud music increases the current draw, and the voltage drop over the extension cord will lower the voltage enough to cause a reset of the {{ | |||
If the {{ | If the {{ToneMatch Mixer}} resets, the LEDs (input trim level, mute LEDs) will turn off. The LCD display will remain lit, but be blank until the unit restarts. | ||
The {{Model II}} Power Stand can reset but it does not show on the indicators. | The {{Model II}} Power Stand can reset but it does not show on the indicators. | ||
In either case the answer is to ensure the power supply is solid | In either case, the answer is to ensure the power supply is solid and dedicated to the audio equipment, and to have as short cords as possible with large wires. | ||
Also be aware that separate wall outlets may still be on the same breaker. | Also be aware that separate wall outlets may still be on the same breaker. | ||
| Line 24: | Line 28: | ||
Those outages can happen any time, but are less likely to repeat, or unlikely to happen only at loud parts of the music. | Those outages can happen any time, but are less likely to repeat, or unlikely to happen only at loud parts of the music. | ||
More: [[Power Considerations]] | |||
==== Overheating ==== | |||
If the {{Model II}} Power Stand overheats, it may shut down. This can happen under direct sunlight outdoors when the temperature exceeds the [[Temperature|maximum operating temperature]]. Check the access to the fan is clear (opening at the front of the power stand) and that legs are on a flat sturdy surface. If the power stand is on a carpet, it may sink down and obscure the vents on the bottom. | |||
==== Defective Unit ==== | |||
Defective units: If the items above are not the cause, then either the {{ToneMatch Mixer}} or power stand may be defective, and you should contact customer service. | |||
<!-- | <!-- | ||